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Peru

Cusco and Machu Picchu: five days at altitude

I went to Cusco mainly for Machu Picchu. These were the five days between the altitude, the San Pedro Market and, along the way, my birthday. Peru is country 1 of my challenge of 30 countries before turning 30.

Mariel Cárdenas with open arms in front of Machu Picchu, Peru
Machu Picchu, the reason I went to Cusco.

Arriving and acclimatizing

I went to Cusco in August 2019, and the first thing I learned is that you have to take the altitude seriously. The first days are for acclimatizing. I recommend not planning too much as soon as you arrive: your body needs that time before performing at 100%.

Cusco sits at about 3,400 meters above sea level, so you notice it. What's usually recommended: go slowly the first day, drink lots of water, eat light and try coca tea (mate de coca), the traditional drink of the area. If you have any health condition, check with your doctor before traveling.

Trip facts

Duration5 days
Trip dateAugust 2019
Approx. temperature~19 °C by day, down to 2 °C at night
What I loved mostMachu Picchu

My birthday fell in the middle of the trip, but the main reason was always Machu Picchu.

San Pedro Market, the breakfast stop

There's a market in Cusco where it seems everyone goes for breakfast, and it's called San Pedro Market. They serve a fruit juice with a yapa (that generous extra they give you as a gift) and it becomes almost a ritual for anyone passing through the city.

Go in the morning, when there's more activity at the stalls.

Mariel Cárdenas by day next to a river around Cusco
By day, exploring the surroundings of Cusco.

Machu Picchu, the reason for the trip

After the days in the city I reached Machu Picchu, the real reason for the trip from the start. Everything else was along the way. It doesn't matter how many photos you've seen before, because getting there and seeing it in person is something completely different.

You see Machu Picchu in photos your whole life. But standing in front of it is another story.

Mariel Cárdenas wearing a red poncho in front of the Machu Picchu citadel, Peru
Another view of Machu Picchu.

How to organize your visit to Machu Picchu

To get there you take a train to Aguas Calientes (also called Machu Picchu Pueblo) and from there a bus up to the entrance of the citadel. The train leaves from Ollantaytambo or from Poroy, near Cusco.

Tickets are bought with a date and time slot, so it's best to reserve them in advance, especially in high season. The first time slots in the morning are usually the quietest and with the best light. Circuits, prices and schedules change, so always confirm them on the official pages before buying.

I had all of that organized before arriving, from each day's schedule to the points where you need to look after the altitude and the transfer logistics to Machu Picchu.

How I got around

For transfers I used taxis almost all the time: the simplest way to move between the center and the places I wanted to visit. Having everything located in advance saved me time and doubts in the moment.

My birthday fell in the middle of the trip, so there was also some nightlife among travelers, but the plan from start to finish revolved around Machu Picchu.

What I would do again (and what I recommend)

01

Dedicate the first day to acclimatizing. No rush, no long excursions: your body will thank you.

02

Have breakfast at San Pedro Market. Juice with a yapa, lots of activity and a perfect introduction to the city.

03

Book Machu Picchu in advance. It's the reason for the trip; it's best to have date and time secured.

04

Have your transfers organized. With the logistics marked out, the days go much further.

What I take away from Cusco

Cusco is altitude, markets and, in the end, Machu Picchu. A five-day trip you don't forget.

Cover of the Cusco and Machu Picchu map

Travel map

Thinking about Cusco and Machu Picchu?

I built this map with the logistics I wish I'd had before arriving: acclimatization, San Pedro Market, schedules and transfers to Machu Picchu, color-coded day by day.

Frequently asked questions

What people ask me the most about this trip

See all questions

How many days do I need for Cusco and Machu Picchu?

My itinerary was 5 days, with time to acclimatize, explore Cusco and visit Machu Picchu.

How do I avoid altitude sickness in Cusco?

The basics are to acclimatize the first days without overplanning, drink water and eat light. Coca tea is the traditional drink. If you have any health doubt, check with a doctor.

Where to have breakfast in Cusco?

At San Pedro Market: they serve fruit juice with a yapa and everyone tends to go there.

How do you get to Machu Picchu?

By train from Ollantaytambo or Poroy to Aguas Calientes and then by bus up to the citadel. Book your tickets with date and time, and confirm details on the official pages.

How did I get around Cusco?

Almost always by taxi, between the center and the points I had marked in the itinerary.

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